For a non-Protestant, one Mass was enough for me. In fact, I doubt I’ll participate again while I’m here. No judgment. It just doesn’t resonate with me. But sitting and praying does, so very likely I’ll return to the Duomo in the early morning and slip into adjacent chapel while Mass is going on. Sitting under Brunelleschi’s Dome before the tourists enter, praying in the Protestant way—just God and me—can’t get much better.
Steps to the Church of St. Francis in Fiesole.
In my www.acottagebythesea blog I’ve written (and posted many pictures) about my experiences today visiting Santa Maria dei Fiori in Florence and then the Convent and Church of St. Francis in Fiesole. At the big church, the Duomo, I participated in 7:30 Mass, following along in Italian in the bulletin that was available in the pews. At the little church in Fiesole I sat prayed and then left when the Mass began.
For a non-Protestant, one Mass was enough for me. In fact, I doubt I’ll participate again while I’m here. No judgment. It just doesn’t resonate with me. But sitting and praying does, so very likely I’ll return to the Duomo in the early morning and slip into adjacent chapel while Mass is going on. Sitting under Brunelleschi’s Dome before the tourists enter, praying in the Protestant way—just God and me—can’t get much better.
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I am continually in awe when I visit the Convent of San Marco. My favorite place in all of Florence; an icon of 15th century Florentine Renaissance history, art and faith. Sitting in the inviting cloister offers plenty of solace. But then, there is the breath-taking approach at the head of the staircase leading to the Upper Floor. The Annunciation. An ‘aesthetic experience’, for sure. I spent a long time in front of this fresco this morning. It’s always been a favorite because I can’t help but look at it and wonder what God is calling me to do. And then there is the humility that Mary exudes, which I can almost feel within my reach. If this isn’t enough, walk down the corridors and peak into the dormitory cells, each with a fresco by Fra Angelico depicting a scene from the life of Christ. If only I could live there, I would pick Cell 1--Noli me tangere, with Jesus telling Mary Magdalene, “Do not to touch me, for I am not yet ascended to the Father.” I love the colors and the composition, and I have always been mystified by Jesus’ comment, for I often feel an approach-avoidance with Jesus. But here is a direct rebuff. It is a seminal moment. Mary has to wait until Jesus ascends, and when he does, Mary becomes all of us, and Jesus becomes accessible to us all.
The apartment that I’ve rented for the month in Florence is on the Piazza S. Trinita end of Via Terme. The church opens at 7 in the morning, closes promptly at noon and opens again from 4 to 7. At 6 in the evening a priest and a handful of women gather to say the rosary; Mass is conducted once a day. Most of the time, however, the church is quiet except for tourists who walk about enjoying art treasures, specifically a painting of the annunciation by Lorenzo Monaco, and, in the Sassetti Chapel, an oil on wood of the nativity and frescos depicting the life of St. Francis, both by Ghirlandio. This morning, after a cappuccino at the local bar, I sat in the church for my morning prayer time. I’m not Roman Catholic but I am intrigued with the rituals; and so it was today. A young woman came in the side entrance, cycle helmet in hand, crossed herself with holy water from the font by the door, and then stood for five or so minutes in front of a painting of the crucified Christ. When she finished she crossed herself, threw a kiss to Christ, crossed herself again with the holy water, and left. I could start creating stories about this women, but do I need to? My stories could be right on, completely off the mark, or somewhere in between. She might be experiencing a deep sorry, or perhaps she comes in every day just to give thanks and offer prayers. What I do know is that she is a human being with all the joys and concerns of life, looking for peace and solace, specifically in Christ. That is enough. What a example of faith. What follows is the entry to my www.cottagebythesea.net. If you follow both of my blogs, this will be a repeat. It sets the scene for my latest pilgrimage, Italy and specifically Florence. But I want to add a little here for my prayer diary readers. I plan to wander about with God, whatever that means? I plan to sit in churches and pray. I plan to hear God. That’s all I know at the moment. I’m open to….. I’m in the air; A’Italia is taking me to Italy; a train will take me to Florence. It’s a simple trip because I’m flying direct: Boston to Rome. No complicated itinerary this time. No USAirways flight west to Philly so I can fly east (back over Boston) to Rome. I wonder how these first three weeks will be for me before my daughter joins me for week four? I’ve rented the same apartment that I rented last year near the Piazza Santa Trinita--and that means near the Santa Trinita church and the Santa Trinita bridge--and that means near the Arno. What a perfect location, and what’s more, the apartment is clean, safe and quiet. I’m in heaven even before I get there. I’m thinking that simplicity is going to rule this trip. As a sign, I left my journal at home, and failed to add an all-about-Florence app to my phone. I guess I didn’t want the complexity of it all. By nature cities are not simple but that doesn’t mean I can’t live a simple life here. I know Florence well so I can get around without a map and I speak some Italian. My small suitcase holds a few simple pants, shirts and shoes, and my computer, Nook, and water bottle fit into my tidy little backpack. My plan is wander the streets and eat my way about the city. I’ll visit churches and museums, sit at cafes, write this blog and post some photographs--as simple as that. I writing this on the plane. When I arrive in Florence I plan to take a picture or two and then post this as is once I get hooked up to wifi at the apartment. Then I’ll go off for a pizza and beer at the Piazza della Signoria. |
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